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Today's
Stories
September 9/10, 2006
Weekend Edition
Jeffrey St. Clair
The Remaking of Cataract Canyon:
In the Footsteps of Vladimir Putin (Part Six)
Greg Grandin
Good Christ, Bad Christ: Testament
of the Death Squads
Peter
Stone Brown
Bob Dylan's Swing Time Waltz in the
Face of the Apocalypse
Ralph Nader
X-Raying Greed
Brian Cloughley
Rumsfeld at the American Legion:
Dead Babies and Nazi Propaganda David
Model
Tailoring the Case Against Iran: Cut
from the Same Old Pattern
Dave Himmelstein
From Bil'in to Birmingham
Ron Jacobs
War and the Power of Words
Fred Gardner
Is Medical Pot Image a Turn-Off to
Teens?
Daniel Gross /
Joe Tessone
An IWW Story at Starbucks
Joe Bageant
Inside the Iron Theater
September
8, 2006
Uri
Avnery
"I'm a Leftist, But ...": the Liberals'
War on Lebanon
Paul
Craig Roberts
Books Are Our Salvation
Bill
Quigley
Judge Says: "No Clowning Around Our WMDs!"
Robert
Jensen
Parallel Purges: Academic Freedom in Iran and
the US
Norman
Solomon
Perception Gap: The War on Terror as Others See It
Keith
Bolin
The Future of the Family Farm
Kristin
S. Schafer
The Global Trade in Deadly Pesticides
Jeffrey
St. Clair
The Remaking of Cataract Canyon (Part Five)
Patrick
Cockburn
Gaza is Dying
Website
of the Day
Help the Bismark 3!
September 7, 206
Marjorie
Cohn
Why Bush Really Came Clean About the CIA's Secret
Torture Prisons
Sharon
Smith
Downward Mobility: No Recovery for Workers
René
Drucker Colín
The Fraud in Mexico
Michael
Donnelly
Bush Family Values: About Those Nazi Appeasers
John
Borowski
Scholastic Peddles a Fictitious Path to 9/11 to Kids
Lucinda
Marshall
Bombing Indiana
Charles
Sullivan
Katrina and the New Jim Crow: Ethnic Cleansing in New Orleans
Jeffrey
St. Clair
The Remaking of Cataract Canyon: Part Four
Jonathan
Cook
How Human Rights Watch Lost Its Way in Lebanon
Website
of the Day
Rasta! Reggae's
Joe Hill
September
6, 2006
Stephen
Soldz
Protecting the Torturers: Bad Faith and Distortions
frm the American Psychological Assocation
Dave
Zirin
Cops vs. Jocks: the Shooting of Steve Foley
Ramzy
Baroud
The Gaza Maze: Who Gained Most from the Fox Reporters' Kidnapping
Noel
Ignatiev
Democrats, Pwogs and the Lesser Evil Folly
Dave
Lindorff
Bombing Without Regrets: The US and Cluster Bombs
Norman
Solomon
Spinning Troop Levels in Iraq
Binoy
Kampmark
The Death of Steve Irwin and the Politics of the Zoo
Jeffrey
St. Clair
A Premature Burial: the Remaking of Cataract Canyon (Part Three)
John
Ross
The Death of Mexican Presidency
Website
of the Day
Flaming Arrows
September
5, 2006
Jonathan Cook
Will Robert Fisk tell us the whole story? Time For A Champion of
Truth to Speak Up
Patrick Cockburn
Better Not Meet at the Casbah
Mike Whitney
The Worst Secretary of Defense in U.S. History? You Be the Judge
Roland Sheppard
The Civil Rights Movement is Dead and So is the Democratic Party
James Petras
As Bush Regime Faces Twilight Slide, How Much Havoc Can Paulson
Wreak?
Alexander Cockburn
Will Bush Bomb Teheran?
September 4, 2006
Clancy Sigal
The Women Who Gave Us Labor Day
Jeffrey St. Clair
The
Remaking of Cataract Canyon: Part 2
Anthony Alessandrini
The
Great Debate about Aroma Coffee: Why I Boycott
Dennis Perrin
The
Great Debate in Tarrytown: Straight Zion, No Chaser
Daniel Cassidy
'S
lom to Slum
Paul Craig Roberts
The
War Is Lost
September 2 / 3,
2006
Uri Avnery
When
Napoleon Won at Waterloo
Jeffrey St. Clair
A
Premature Burial: the Remaking of Cataract Canyon
Ralph Nader
The
No-Fault White House
Noam Chomsky
Viewing the World from a Bombsight
Allan Lichtman
Arrested Democracy: Letter from the Baltimore County Jail
Stanley Heller
When Criticism of Cluster Bombs is "Anti-Semitic"
Rana el-Khatib
Invasion's Child: the Making of Issa
Peter Montague
Taking on the Pentagon: Chemical Weapons to Burn
Laura Carlsen
Mexico on a Collision Course
Dr. Susan Block
Bush Hate Rising
Joe Bageant
Roy's People: Why Progressives Need to Listen to Orbison, Not Policy
Wonks
Scott Stedjan / Matt Schaaf
A New Generation of Landmines?
Gary Leupp
The Emperor Has Been Exposed
Stephen Fleischman
The Great American Oligarchy
Paul Balles
Has Ahmadinejad Already Checkmated Bush?
Ingmar Lee
Canada's $450 Million Gift to Bush: the Softwood Lumber Slush Fund
Jane Stillwater
Burning Man: the Good, the Bad and the Evil Twin
Ron Jacobs
Dylan Faces the Apocalypse, Again
St. Clair / Bossert
Playlist: What We're Listening to This Week
Poets' Basement
Grima, Engel, Orloski and Davies
Website of the Weekend
To New Orleans: a Photo Journal
September 1, 2006
Uri Avnery
Olmert
Agonistes
Paul Craig Roberts
Of
Wolves and Men (and Impotent Democrats)
Bill Ayers
Exclusionary Signs of the Times
Kevin Zeese
The Best War Ever
Xochitl Bervera
The Forgotten Children of New Orleans
Norman Solomon
Bush vs. Ahmadinejad: a TV Debate We'll Never See
Alexander Cockburn
Hezbollah Denounces Nasrallah Interview as a Fake
Richard Neville
Rupert
Murdoch's Victims
Website of the Day
The Uranium Flood
| Weekend
Edition
September 9/10 , 2006
In the Footsteps of Vladimir
Putin
The Remaking of Cataract
Canyon (Part Six)
By JEFFREY
ST. CLAIR
You
don’t see the Grand River coming. It sneaks in from the northeast,
down a vaulted corridor of rock. You feel its muscular pulse first,
sucker-punching you with a new surge to the current. The river runs
a vibrant reddish-brown, the color of native America.
Here
at the marriage of the Grand and the Green is where the real Colorado
River is born. It flows freely for 18 miles, then dies beneath the
chill waters of Lake Powell. These 18 miles are the only free-flowing
stretch of the Colorado River from here to the Sea of Cortez, turbulent,
tepid, freighted with silt.
The
river that runs through Grand Canyon is not free. It bears no resemblance
to the natural Colorado. Its flow is minutely fine-tuned by the
hydro-engineers that operation Glen Canyon Dam. The water emerges
from the spillways at 47 degrees, 50 degrees cooler than the Colorado
on an average summer day. Cold enough for rainbow trout. Frigid
and blue. Cataract Canyon is all that remains of the river Powell
encountered. And half of it has been drowned.
Weisheit
motions us over to a beach on river right where several other rafts
are anchored. This is the famous Spanish Bottom. One of the guides
is leading a group of jolly Germans, who look almost as Aryan as
the suburban saints of Provo. He gestures at our rafts and kayaks
and tells his clients with a smirk and a theatrical shake of his
head, "Those are self-baling boats."
Then
the rival guide pushes his raft (a non-bailing bucket boat) off
the beach and heads off down Cataract Canyon. On the bucket boat’s
stern, the icon of authenticity wears a propeller. I guess that’s
how you run Fast Food Rapids. Get ‘em in, get em out. Slam,
bam, thank you mam. The whitewater quickie.
But
who is bailing the hydrocarbons?
* * *
The
river clientele are becoming increasingly international, as younger
Americans opt for extreme sports, such as base jumping, or root
themselves in front of online gaming monitors and swell to such
obese proportions that they can no longer squeeze through security
screens at airports, never mind stuff themselves into a kayak.
Moab
is a favored destination for Germans, obsessed with John Wayne,
who urge their guides to haul off them to places where they can
get their photos snapped in front of locations from John Ford films.
Australians
come to the river to tempt death, badgering their guides to take
the most dangerous course through the biggest rapids. One Aussie
offered Weisheit $1,000 to intentionally flip his raft in the cauldron
of Big Drop One. "I’m not going to do that," Weisheit
told him. "But will you still pay me $1,000 if the river flips
us anyway?"
The
English, as a group, tend to be prissy. They refuse to swim naked,
make odd, animal-like noises in the Groover, wear dress shoes in
the raft and, according to the late river-runner and writer Ellen
Meloy, insist on referring to each river eddy as, yes, an Edward.
It
will surprise no one that the French come to dispute.
They
complain about the lack of standing room in their tents, the omnipresence
of bugs, the paucity of rapids prior to Cataract, the soaking from
the rapids themselves, and, most viciously, they bitch about the
quality of riverside meals, prepared by the river guides following
a hard day rowing in sweltering heat. After being offered a plate
with Indiana-grown corn-on-the-cob lathered in garlic butter, a
French tourist shoved the fare back at the guide and exclaimed,
"Why do you serve me this pig food?" These are the clients
you send for firewood near the scorpion’s nest and the faded
midget rattlesnake’s den.
But
the consensus of the guides is clear. The crudest, cheapest and
most demeaning patrons are Russian men, led by their President Vladimir
Putin.
A
couple of years ago Vladimir Putin journeyed to the American Southwest
to take his son on an initiation ritual. The boy's mother is now
an American citizen. First stop was a big game ranch in Texas, where
Putin and Jr blasted zebras, antelopes and bison. Apparently, Putin,
reenacting a scene out of Mailer's Why Are We In Vietnam, marked
his son's forehead in the blood of one of these hapless creatures.
Then
it was on to Moab, Utah, for a raft trip down Cataract Canyon on
the Colorado River. The Moab river guide community is still shaking
its head from its close encounter with the Russian president and
former KGB man. "We get a lot of whacked-out people coming
down the river, but Putin really is a dangerous guy, a real mobster,"
a guide told me.
"His
packs were loaded with guns, vodka and tens of thousands of dollars
in cash," the guide said. "He seemed to be a little on
edge. He was a real bully. He was drunk much of the time and bossed
people around as if they were his personal slaves. They refused
to use the Groover. They pissed and shat wherever they wanted. They
fired off their guns. They caught channel catfish and bashed their
heads in with rocks."
Putin
and his son were soon bored with the redbrick canyons and Class
five rapids. "By the third day, Putin demanded that the guides
call in a helicopter to have his party picked up and flown out.
Then he got drunk and began to threaten the guides. He started bragging
about how many people he had personally killed. More than 40, he
said."
The
rafts finally exited Cataract and motored across 30 miles of Lake
Powell's flat water to the marina complex at Hite The next step
on the Putties' tour was supposed to be a four-wheeler excursion
tearing up the desert in the bizarre Needles District of Canyonlands.
But Putin opted for a more traditional form of initiation for his
son, straight out of Notes from the Underground. From the Hite marina,
he placed a call to Las Vegas.
"Get
us some whores," Putin shouted into his cellphone. "Price
is no object."
*
* *
As
Weisheit and Brian deal with some administrative matters and check
the rigging of the rafts for the first rapids, I take a short walk
through the meadows of Spanish Bottom, following a trail that winds
up into the Maze to the Chocolate Drops, the surrealistic Harvest
Panel pictograph and a group of strange multi-colored rock spires
called the Doll House, which could pass for Utah’s version
of Antonio Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia Cathedral.
Cairns
mark the way, even though the way is obvious. Everyone wants to
leave their testimonial to treading the wilderness. I leave my own
by toppling the cairns as I pass them, scattering the stones among
the yellow beeplants and Indian ricegrass.
I
stumble across a lithified mound of cowshit. Cows haven’t
grazed here in at least forty-five years, since Canyonlands became
a national park and all the bovine marauders were finally evicted.
Even the most mundane scars take decades to heal in this desert.
Putin’s shit is probably out there too, slowly turning to
stone.
To
be continued.
Remaking
Cataract Canyon: Part One.
Remaking
Cataract Canyon: Part Two.
Remaking
Cataract Canyon: Part Three.
Remaking
Cataract Canyon: Part Four.
Remaking
Cataract Canyon: Part Five.
Jeffrey St. Clair
is
the author of Been
Brown So Long It Looked Like Green to Me: the Politics of Nature
and Grand
Theft Pentagon: Tales of Corruption and Profiteering from the War
on Terror. He can be reached at: sitka@comcast.net.
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